Obama, and Amanohashidate

So after I camped on the shore of Lake Biwa, I biked along the coast for a while, and then headed across to the small resort town of Obama.
They are excited to suddenly have the same name as the American President. I stopped in the Tourist Information desk at the train station and they asked me to fill out a survey, and then gave me free chopsticks (every town in Japan has a local product).
This was on her desk.
These were actually in a rest stop before I got into the city. I think the pictured guy there is actually someone else who vaguely resembles Obama. The words are confusing - right now I'm not sure if it's saying to cheer on the town of Obama, or that the town is cheering on the president. I mean it makes more sense if the town is cheering for the president, but anyways.

After that I biked along the coast, with some nice bike paths that got seriously close to the coast (there's some sort of long distance nature trail that was going my way). I learned from my map that there are two nuclear power plants on peninsulas around there. Creepy.

That night I ran into two Australians who had found the same abandoned campground. Their names are Peter and Ruth, and they were very nice. I invited them along to the Italian restaurant my map recommended, with a counter that overlooks the sea, and they were delighted to have someone who could read the menu. I want to be them someday, taking vacations to bike through India and Southeast Asia and Japan. They were so easygoing, happily meandering along the coast. Sadly I didn't take their pictures, but they are awesome folks.

Next day we set off to Amanohashidate, another one of the three most beautiful views in Japan. Parted ways with the Aussies in Maizuru, though they caught up with me by the time I got to the Youth Hostel.
Which was mostly because Siena and I walked across the land bridge instead of cycling. Apparently inside of the land bridge wasn't that picturesque, but the view the next day from the mountaintop was pretty great.


You're supposed to look at it between your legs, because upside-down it looks like a bridge to heaven. (That's what the name means, by the way, bridge to heaven.)
I'll leave it to you to decide. I think it's awesome.
Also we are happy, even if our heads are in the way.

Then we took the bus back, and here I am back in Osaka. I've got a few more days here before I head off on my bike again. I'm definitely glad I did these side trips.

Sometimes I miss having a home, not having the stress of finding a place to sleep for the night. But there is something nice about being out in the countryside, a rhythm to pedaling and finding food and setting up the tent.

Slept on the shore of Lake Biwa last night.

This was my approach to the Youth Hostel in Ise (actually Futami-no-Ura, the neighboring town, but whatever). I knew that the hostel had the same name as a local temple, but the taxi driver dropped me off right here (actually down the hill a little, but those pictures aren't as good). It was raining, and quite magical. Just inside the gate are your standard angry guardian statues and everything. Then after I checked in, the monk (who looked middle-aged and had hair) showed me the Boddhisatva inside the temple. It was beautiful, really a once in a lifetime experience. He told me that it's been designated a National Treasure, and was from the Kamakura era.

Next day I went to see the "wedded rocks," which I posted about yesterday. They were smaller than i had imagined, but still pretty cool.

Ise proper has two shrine complexes, the 外宮　Geku , outer shrine, and the 内宮, Naigu inner shrine. The outer shrine is devoted to the goddess of the harvest, who really just guards the offerings to the Amaterasu Omikami, the sun goddess and most important god in Japan. You can't take pictures of the real things, but here's an example of an auxiliary shrine to get a sense of the architecture.
Passed a catholic church between shrines, lol.

During the Edo period, people would say "at least once in my life I want to go to Ise." Here I am, as close as you're allowed to photograph to the main shrine.


All in all, it wasn't as moving as anything in Italy, but still a wonderful side trip.

More about Ise tonight.

Okay, so tonight I am renting a computer for 1000 yen, and staying in a business hotel, in Iga-Ueno 伊賀上野. It is the hometown of Matsu Basho, the great haiku poet, and ninjas (according to wikipedia, that includes Hattori Hanzo, of Kill Bill sword-making fame, and I think i remember seeing something about that). I'm a little bummed not to be camping, but I'm making the best of it. But let's rewind (bwip bwip bwip bwip) -

Last time I posted I was talking about the river in Kyoto. By the way, this is the Kamogawa River. But I've been meaning to write about my haircut experience, which was awesome. I always get nervous when I go to get a haircut, about whether I can retain the look I want while having less hair. I have enough concerns conveying what I want in English, let alone Japanese. But I needed a haircut, so I asked the friendly staff at K's House where I should go for a cheap haircut. They directed me to a mall south of the station, and it turned out to cost 1000 yen. You pay at a machine, then wait in line with your ticket. They call you up, saying various keigo (very polite speech) phrases. There's a closet at each booth for your stuff, a little TV with the weather and headlines. The hairdressers all wear surgical masks and uniforms, and I saw them sweep all the hair from the previous guest into a vacuum suctioned hole along the wall. Then I sat down and he asked me basically the same questions I get in English. Do I want the ears exposed? 耳は、出せる感じ？Do I want the back up the the hairline? 後ろはぎりぎり？ I stuttered in Japanese, and then we got to work, although not until after I placed my glasses in a special box.

He worked quickly, and then proceeded to vacuum my hair. This was prefaced by a polite "I will now (humbly) vacuum your hair." In case you didn't know, hair that is not connected to your head is considered unclean in Japan. But you know, I didn't feel itchy afterwards. And my hair looks great.





Now I just need to shave, but I don't really want to.

Then I swung by the Historical Site of Rashoman Gate, which is now a playground. I guess it burned down a long time ago, but it's still ironic.



The next day I went to Kinkakuji, aka the Golden Pavillion. I know it's probably cliche or something, but honestly I think this is the coolest thing in Kyoto. There were a million schoolkids, and I got interviewed by some middle schoolers practicing their English.

Apparently each floor is done in a different style. And it was burned down by a crazy monk in 1950. I'm glad they rebuilt it. Actually, most of the temples in Kyoto were burned down at some point and rebuilt, although usually in the 1200s.
Then I went to an amusement park with Siena, but I didn't bring my camera. Bug her for pictures of the whole day. The rides were fun - there was a wooden coaster and a knock-off of the wild mouse, and I did a free fall for the first time. Hardly anyone was there, so we did all the cool rides twice.

Then yesterday I biked to Nara! I like Nara a lot. It's much quieter than Kyoto, and more laid back. Of course, I didn't spend that much time downtown, except to eat at a super fancy bar, the kind with tiny entrees for 8 bucks, but at least it was unique. (I went to マク McD afterwards for something to actually fill me.) That evening I did see Kusaga Taisha 春日大社, the grand shrine there, and the front of Todaiji 東大寺.

The first one is all about Lanterns,

and the second one is just totally sweet.

I went back the next day because there's a giant Buddha in Todaiji. Hey, that's today!

Then a bunch of stupid things happened involving me leaving my helmet in the bathroom and forgetting that I left it there. Finally I set out and had some glorious riding, with lots of hills and nature and not that many cars. Eventually I got to the suburbs, greeted by this:

Also I saw this on my way to the hotel.


And now I can go to bed.

My favorite part of Kyoto is the Kamogawa River. When you go down to the bank, all the city noise fades away. There are ducks and crane-type birds and grass growing in the shallow parts. There are shanties under nearly every bridge, and i can see why. Its the most peaceful part of the city.

Went to the Kyoto International Manga Museum yesterday. They had an exhibit on Moebius, a French creator who has had a very big influence on manga. I loved his surrealism. But the exhibit on La Bande Dessinees (French language comics) was the most exciting. So many gorgeous and fascinating titles id never heard of! I might have to relearn french - Im sad to say i can understand written french better than japanese.